Powerflex F23 Engine Mounting Bush Fitting Guide

Step 1
To fit the Powerflex Polyurethane engine-mounting bush you will need the following tools:
16mm socket
16mm spanner
15mm ring spanner
E20 socket
Ratchet wrench (es) to suit the sockets
Ramps or axles stands
Trolley or bottle jack



Useful items to have, but not essential
E20 ring spanner (not pictured)
15mm or E20 ratchet spanner (not pictured) to speed up removal of the bolts
WD40 or silicone spray
Car creeper

Step 2
Lift the car into the air at the front, using either axle stands to support the car on the chassis rails, as pictured, or by driving the front wheels up onto ramps. This is to allow you to gain better access with a jack, in order to support the weight of the engine and gearbox assembly when the engine mounting is removed.



Step 3
The engine mounting we are concerned with is situated at the front of the engine, behind the radiator area and is attached to the front crossmember assembly using a long 16mm head bolt and locknut and attached to the engine/gearbox assembly using two E20 Torx head bolts.



Step 4
Using the jack, lift the engine slowly until the rear engine mount and the jack are supporting the weight of the engine. This can be determined by raising the jack slowly and watching the front engine mounting.



Step 5
When the long bolt attaching the engine mount to the crossmember is central in the outer casting of the engine mount the mount is no longer supporting any weight.



Step 6
Using the E20 socket and a ratchet wrench, remove the lower of the two bolts holding the mount to the engine assembly. This will afford better access in order to remove the second, upper E20 bolt.



Step 7
Using a 15mm ring spanner or E20 Torx head ring spanner, remove the upper engine assembly mounting bolt.



Step 8
The bolt can be removed from the engine mounting by loosening the 16mm, long bolt securing the mount to the front crossmember, allowing the engine mount to rotate downwards.



Step 9
Using a 16mm socket and spanner, undo the long bolt and locknut securing the engine mount.



Step 10
Withdraw the bolt.



Step 11
The engine mounting can now be removed from the car.



Step 12
As can be seen in this photo, the front engine mounting bush is not a solid rubber bush and has voids in it to allow more flex and reduce the vibration transmitted to the body shell. This works fine for a standard car, but when more power or traction is gained over standard, this rubber bush can flex too much, making gear changes more difficult. Engine movement on cars fitted with powerpipes can also cause premature wear to radiator mounting bushes and has been known to cause intercooler mountings to crack and fail.



Step 13
One of the Powerflex Polyurethane inserts ready to be fitted. Depending on how dirty the original mounting is, it is worthwhile giving it a good clean to get all grit and oil deposits from it. When the new bush inserts are fitted any contamination will be trapped between the rubber and the polyurethane, which could cause wear or damage as the bush moves.



Step 14
The polyurethane inserts fitted into the original engine mount. Note that the bushes are not identical and are ‘handed’ to fit each side of the engine mounting.



Step 15
Refit the assembly to the car. A light coat of WD40 or silicone spray will help you ease the now larger and tighter fitting engine mounting into place.



Step 16
Refit the long 16mm bolt and locknut, but do not fully tighten yet. Fit the upper E20 bolt to the mount and rotate the mounting back into place on the engine.



Step 17
Locate the lower engine mounting bolt first and wind in using the ratchet, but do not fully tighten yet. This bolt being in position first aids location of the upper bolt, as you cannot physically see into the bolt hole to align the upper bolt to the thread.



Step 18
Locate the upper mounting bolt and tighten fully, then fully tighten the lower mounting bolt to the engine assembly. The long 16mm bolt and locknut can now be fully tightened.



Step 19
The completed installation of the Powerflex bushing. This job is within the grasp of any home mechanic with the necessary tools and can be completed in less than half an hour. On the road, it was immediately noticeable that on a car fitted with a short shift kit the gear changes were smoother, especially second gear, which at times can be tricky with the short shift. This can be attributed to the cable gear change on the F23 gearbox being prone to engine movement effects, as the gear lever is less prone to movement caused by engine sway.

ok.. jag är inte värdens besta på engelska.. men sett en till guide om det där.

men som jag uppfatta det som skulle det bli mjukare för motorn inga hårda stötar.

Får gärna göra en förklaring på svenska så även dummis hänger med >_<